The person behind it

The owner

Owner · on the near grill

Ask for them by name

Sami is the one in the apron, not the one in an office

There is no owner upstairs at Double Stack. Sami unlocks the shutter, takes the delivery in, checks the oil, and is on the near grill by six — which is why regulars in Dubai tend to order by pointing rather than by reading the board.

They will remember that you take yours without pickles before they remember your name, and they will apologise properly if the fries went out soft. Twenty years of kitchens ended with a decision to stand at the front of one instead of behind it.

The near grill and the service counter, treated as a duotone

The near grill — the station Sami keeps for themselves on a Friday. No staff portraits on this site: the people here would rather be found behind the counter than on a wall.

In their own words

Why a counter, and not a restaurant

People assume the plan was always a restaurant and that this is the step before it. It is the other way round. I spent four years plating banquet food that arrived at a table under a cloche, and in all that time I never once heard what anyone thought of it. The compliments came back through a manager. So did the complaints, softened.

A counter removes every person standing between the food and the person eating it. You order in front of me, I cook it in front of you, and I hand it over myself. If it is wrong you tell me while it is still hot, and I can fix it in four minutes instead of reading about it online on Sunday.

It also keeps the price honest. A dining room means chairs, linen, a floor team and a wine list, and all of that has to be paid for by the food. Take the room away and the same grill sells the same burger for half of it. Nobody has ever asked me for a nicer chair.

The last reason is the plain one: I like the work. A restaurant would put me in an office doing rotas and supplier calls all day. Here the busiest station in the shop is mine, and on a Friday at nine there is nowhere I would rather be standing.

I would rather hand you the bag myself and hear about it.

Sami — Double Stack

The short version

Twenty years, four kitchens, one counter

Nothing here was a plan. Each of these was the job that made the next one obvious.

2003

First shift, someone else's counter

Weekends on the fryer at a two-man takeaway while still at school. Learned the only lesson that ever mattered: the queue is the clock.

2008

Nights on a hotel line

Four years of banquet service — a hundred covers plated to the minute. Precise, expensive, and never once did a guest speak to the person who cooked their food.

2011

Ran the kitchen, not the books

Head chef at a mid-sized grill house. Good money, a team of eleven, and a growing suspicion that the best thing on the menu was the one dish nobody had to explain.

2014

Opened the counter

One grill, one fryer, a chalked-up board and a lease signed on optimism. Cooked every order personally for the first eight months.

2019

Second grill, same hands

Delivery took off and the kitchen doubled. The rule held: whoever cooks it hands it over, so there is always a name attached to a bad night.

Today

Still on the near grill

Ordering in the morning, service from six, and the near grill on a Friday — the busiest station, kept deliberately, because that is where the mistakes happen.

Come in and say it to their face

Ask for Sami at the counter

Suppliers, ideas, a complaint, or a burger you think should be on the board — it all goes to the same person, and it is quicker in person than in an inbox.

Open today · 11:00 – 02:00

Looking for how the shop itself started? That story is on the About page.